The Skunk Train - Fort Bragg, California

A Historic Journey Through the Redwoods: Riding the Skunk Train in Northern California

California’s vast and varied landscapes are one of its most celebrated features, from its sun-soaked beaches to the rugged Sierra Nevada peaks. But tucked away in the state’s quiet northern reaches lies a hidden gem that offers a unique and nostalgic way to experience its natural splendor: the California Western Railroad, affectionately known as the “Skunk Train.” This historic railway weaves through ancient redwood groves and across scenic riverbanks, offering passengers a rare glimpse into the past and into one of the most majestic forest ecosystems on Earth.

A Railroad Born of Timber and Tradition

The story of the California Western Railroad begins in 1885, during the heyday of California’s logging industry. Originally constructed to haul timber from Mendocino County’s rich redwood forests to the coast, this 40-mile rail line connected the inland town of Willits with the coastal port of Fort Bragg. Along the way, the train ferried not just lumber, but the people who lived and worked in the numerous logging camps that dotted the forest. Over time, this utilitarian railroad became a lifeline for the region, integral to both the economy and the emerging community.

Unlike other logging railroads of its era, the California Western Railroad left a lasting legacy on the region’s cultural fabric. It helped shape the early settlements, bringing in goods, workers, and a sense of progress. While the timber industry has faded, the railroad remains, now repurposed for something equally valuable—bringing joy, wonder, and historical insight to modern-day explorers.

The Curious Origin of the “Skunk Train”

The nickname “Skunk Train” was born in 1925, a few decades after the railroad’s inception. That year, the company introduced self-propelled motorcars designed to carry both freight and passengers. These early railcars ran on gasoline and featured oil-fired heaters, giving off an unmistakable odor that locals claimed you could smell before the train even came into view. “You can smell ’em before you can see ’em!” became a popular saying, and the name “Skunk Train” stuck.

Though today’s engines are far more environmentally friendly—and smell much better—the quirky nickname lives on. In fact, the Skunk Train brand is worn proudly, with souvenirs like plush skunks sold at the Fort Bragg depot. For many, the moniker is a charming reminder of a bygone era in transportation.

A Scenic Escape into Nature

In recent years, the Skunk Train has evolved from a working freight line into a beloved scenic railway. After tunnel #1 collapsed, burying a section of track under nearly 50 feet of rock and soil, the railroad was cut off from the broader network. Rather than fade into history, the line returned to its roots as a passenger-only experience—one that now draws visitors from around the world.

Skunk Train Arriving

The Pudding Creek Express is one of the most popular rides, departing daily from Fort Bragg. The route follows the serene Pudding Creek Estuary, rolling through redwood canyons and across historic trestle bridges. Because the canyon offers no room to turn the train around, the locomotive pushes the train cars—vintage passenger cars, open-air viewing cars, and even a bar car—through the forest to the Glen Blair Bar platform.

This 25-minute ride may be short in duration, but it’s rich in atmosphere. Towering trees, birdsong, and the quiet trickle of water create a magical ambiance that invites passengers to disconnect from the digital world and reconnect with nature.

The Skunk Train and “The Chiggen”

While the Skunk Train typically runs using a classic GP9 Electro-Motive Diesel engine, it transforms into something truly special during the summer months. On select weekends in August and September, the railroad hosts “Days of Steam,” swapping the diesel engine for a restored steam locomotive. Train enthusiasts and families alike flock to Fort Bragg to witness—and ride behind—this magnificent piece of living history.

On our visit, the star of the show was the lovingly restored steam engine affectionately known as “The Chiggen.”

The Chiggen in the rewoods

Officially named Santa Cruz Portland Cement Co. №2, this 0–4–0ST saddle tank locomotive was built in 1909 by the H.K. Porter Company. It served two industrial companies in California before being decommissioned.

But its story didn’t end there. For over 30 years, this little locomotive stood as a whimsical billboard for a fried chicken restaurant in California’s Central Valley—hence the nickname “The Chiggen.” In 2006, rail enthusiast Efstathios I. Pappas purchased the engine and began a meticulous restoration process. By 2014, The Chiggen was ready to ride again, and it’s been delighting visitors on the Skunk Train ever since.

Watching The Chiggen pull into Fort Bragg Depot, steam hissing and whistle blowing, feels like stepping back in time. The moment is made even more surreal by the presence of the train conductor, waving from the platform, as if welcoming you to the early 1900s.

Glen Blair Bar: Redwoods and Relaxation

Glen Blair Bar

At the end of the Pudding Creek route lies Glen Blair Bar, a peaceful forest outpost nestled among towering redwoods. Designed to blend with its natural surroundings, the bar offers travelers a chance to disembark and relax beneath the canopy. With shaded picnic tables, food and drinks, and even occasional live music, it’s the perfect place to stretch your legs and soak in the forest serenity before the return trip.

Visitors can enjoy short hikes through the surrounding woods or simply sip a local beer under the rustling branches. Whether you're looking for quiet reflection or family fun, Glen Blair Bar offers a fitting finale to a journey through one of the most beautiful corners of California.

Conclusion: Ride the Rails, Relive the Past

The California Western Railroad isn’t just a mode of transportation—it’s a portal to another time. From its origins in the redwood logging boom to its modern incarnation as a scenic wonder, the Skunk Train has remained a cherished piece of California’s story. Riding it is more than a travel experience; it’s a deep dive into history, nature, and the enduring charm of slow travel.

Whether you’re a train enthusiast chasing steam engines, a nature lover eager to wander beneath the redwoods, or a traveler in search of hidden gems, the Skunk Train offers an unforgettable adventure. So next time you’re in Northern California, take the opportunity to step aboard—and let the rails carry you on a journey through time.